Serveware

What Earns a Permanent Place on the Table

Most serving pieces are bought for an occasion and then live in a cupboard, which is a reasonable thing for a tiered stand to do and a waste for a bowl. The ones that stay out share two qualities: they are needed at almost every meal, and they need nobody to operate them. A piece that requires assembling, filling with ice or plugging in belongs in the cupboard, however useful it is on the day it comes out. Reach matters as much as size here. A platter that has to be passed with two hands changes how a table works, while one that can be slid across does not.

Steel, Glass and Porcelain Do Different Jobs

Material decides behavior more than shape does. Stainless steel conducts heat in both directions, which is why a steel bowl chilled in advance keeps a salad cold as effectively as a warmed one keeps food hot. Glass identifies its contents from above, which matters on a table carrying several dishes that look alike. Porcelain holds heat longest and shows a chip soonest, since the glaze is fused glass and the rim is where it meets the world. Choose steel for temperature, glass for identification and porcelain for a piece that will sit on the table rather than travel across it.

Buying for a Number You Can Predict

Serving pieces are sized for the gathering you actually host rather than the largest one you can imagine. A board that suits six is used monthly; one that suits twenty is used twice a year and stored the rest of the time. Two medium pieces beat one large one, because they can be set at opposite ends of a table and stop a queue forming at a single point. A dispenser is the exception worth oversizing, since refilling one mid-evening is the job nobody volunteers for.

For the plates and bowls these pieces serve onto, the porcelain range is in Dinnerware, and the mugs, decanters and shakers that handle the drinking side sit in Drinkware.