Dress Shoes

Oxford, Derby and Loafer Describe the Fastening

An oxford has its lacing sewn under the front of the shoe, closing to a clean line. A derby has it sewn on top, which opens wider. A loafer has none at all. That single detail sets the formality order, oxford then derby then loafer, and it also decides fit. An oxford has almost no adjustment across the instep, so a high instep needs a derby rather than a larger oxford. Wingtip and brogue describe the decorative perforation rather than the construction, and traditionally more perforation means slightly less formal.

Why a Formal Shoe Should Feel Snug at First

A formal shoe holds the foot through the instep rather than through the toe, which is why it should feel closer than a trainer without pinching. Length should leave a thumb's width at the front, and the heel should not lift when you walk. A dress shoe that feels comfortable and loose in the shop will feel loose and blistering after a day, because the material relaxes rather than tightens. Width is the measurement to check where the ball of the foot sits, and a wider fitting solves what a longer size makes worse.

Keeping Faux Leather from Cracking

Faux leather is a coating on a fabric backing, so it does not absorb conditioner the way hide does and can be damaged by products meant for real leather. What cracks it is repeated flexing while dry, and heat. Wipe faux leather clean and let it dry away from a radiator, because forced heat is what turns a crease into a crack. Shoe trees help for a reason that applies to both materials: they hold the shape while the shoe dries out from the inside, and a shoe worn two days running never gets that chance.

For the tailoring these are usually worn with, the range is in Tuxedos & Suits, and the everyday alternatives are in Sneakers.