Floral Fragrance

A single flower against an arrangement

A soliflore sets out to be one flower and is judged on whether it succeeds. You either recognize it and want it or you recognize it and do not, and the decision takes seconds. An arrangement is a designed impression that no garden produces, and it has to be judged as a composition instead, on whether the parts agree with each other. An arrangement cannot be dismissed on the strength of disliking one flower.

• A soliflore is a yes or a no. There is very little to discuss once you have smelled it.
• An arrangement has to be read. What is underneath the flowers matters as much as the flowers.
• Which is good news for skeptics. Disliking rose does not rule out a floral built around it.

Loud flowers and quiet flowers

Flowers vary enormously in volume, and that difference matters more day to day than which species is named. Jasmine, tuberose and gardenia are the loud ones, capable of filling a room from a single application. Rose, violet and iris are the restrained ones, closer to the skin and easier to live with. Knowing which side a floral leans toward tells you more than its flower list does.

• Jasmine brings the volume. What makes it divisive is explained on the jasmine perfume page.
• Musk keeps the quiet ones close. Soft musk and light florals stay within conversational distance.
• Coconut is not a flower. It is often read as floral because it behaves like one: soft, sweet and non fruity.

The base decides how it reads

Florals with the same flowers can land in completely different places depending on what has been built under them. Over wood and musk a floral reads composed and slightly formal. Over vanilla or sweetness it reads soft and modern. Check it first on any product page before buying a floral you have not smelled.

• Floral over wood. The drier, more structured end, composed enough for an office.
• Floral over sweetness. The softer route, warm and easy on skin.
• Floral over citrus. A bright opening that stays light from start to finish.

Florals cross every label

Floral is a scent family rather than a department, so it cuts across labels instead of sitting in one corner, a useful thing to know if you have been shopping by category. As a family it leans daytime rather than evening.

• It is not a single shelf. Florals turn up under the women's and unisex labels alike.
• It leans toward daylight. Florals are a classic for spring and everyday wear rather than for nights out.
• Start with the base you want. Choosing wood or sweetness first narrows the choice quickly.